The September Issue
A dazzling behind-the-scenes study reveals the personalities behind the world's glossiest magazine.
Once the rarefied preserve of very wealthy ladies, high fashion has gone mainstream. Advertising and celebrity endorsement encourage ordinary folk on limited budgets to expect at least a smattering of designer product in their wardrobe, and the designers themselves keep their brands in the popular line of sight through diffusion labels, high street ranges, and attainable items like perfume and sunglasses. And since these luxury labels require a supply of besotted consumers to advertise to, TV and film corporations have also gone big on fashion-fetish content: Sex and the City; Gossip Girl; Project Runway; Ugly Betty; The Devil Wears Prada. The latter two titles both centre on fictional fashion magazines presided over by icy, domineering female editors – an archetype referring to one woman whose celebrity has burgeoned in our relatively democratised style era, and whose unique working methods are showcased in this witty, elegant and revealing film. Magazine editors aren't usually household names, but American Vogue's Anna Wintour has become just that – at least since the aforementioned …Prada indirectly spoofed her frosty perfectionism. This documentary takes a different angle on Wintour and her work. Her alarming manner and extraordinary degree of influence are of course apparent (witness poor Stefano Pilati, head designer for Yves Saint Laurent, virtually apologising for his own collection as she disdains its colour palette!), but director R J Cutler is most interested in examining Vogue as a delicate balance between ruthless business acumen and eccentric artistry. Wintour perches at one end of the seesaw; the other is manned by Vogue creative director Grace Coddington. Whatever you get from Wintour (heartbreakingly defensive lost soul, or granitehearted supervillain?), it's virtually impossible to watch this film without falling half in love with Grace. A former model and a leading fashion stylist, she's theatrical, passionate and hilariously dry. She also appears to be the only person in the world allowed to take the piss out of Anna Wintour… The tension between Grace and Anna is the framework for a film that combines hilarious vignettes and guilty-pleasure gossip (what is to be done about Sienna Miller's teeth??) with a character study that's fascinating whether or not you know your Balenciaga from your Balmain.
2009 Archive
Festival Diary: June
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#1 Leona Campbell / Sunday 28 June, 2009 / 21:41 GMT